MUSEYON GUIDES

Venice’s Newest Museum is Also One of Its Oldest

Gabriel — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 21:35:35 +0000

According to a fascinating article in today’s New York Times, one of the first true museums ever, the Palazzo Grimani, is now one of Europe’s newest exhibition spaces as the 500+-year-old structure reopens to the public after a century and a half of disuse and a nine year restoration.

The story of the Palazzo Grimani is as knotty and rich in crimson details as any part of Venetian history. It was the palace of a doge that eventually feel into the hands of Domenico and Giovanni Grimani, an uncle and nephew whose massive collection of contemporary and antique statuary formed the basis for the city’s Archeological Museum and other civic art institutions. Their collection spilled over into the private showcase of the Palazzo, which became a residential museum toward the end of the 16th Century. As the Times details, it was a must-see stop in any tour of the city (or Italy for that matter), until old age and neglect caught up with it in the 19th Century. Now, a careful restoration has made the Palazzo safe for tourists yet again—no longer a stage for free-standing artworks, but an artwork to be contemplated and appreciated in of itself. Writer Roderick Conway Morris waxes poetic about the patina, the chipped frescoes, and the mystique of this architectural marvel. We just hope that after a few months of tourists enjoying the museum for its own sake (much like the early days of the Bilbao Guggenheim) we’ll see a few statues carefully arranged in this gorgeous setting.

“Reopening of Palazzo Grimani Revives Memory of Creator” (New York Times)

Museo di Palazzo Grimani
Campo Santa Maria Formosa
Ramo Grimani, Castello 4858
Venice, Italy
www.palazzogrimani.org

Images:
Top: Interior of the Palazzo Grimani, courtesy of the New York Times.
Bottom: Detail of a fresco from the interior, courtesy of the New York Times, interior, courtesy of the Palazzo Grimani.

Caravaggio CSI Update: With Samples Headed to The Lab, We Enter The Penultimate Chapter

Gabriel — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 20:23:54 +0000

Yes, the mystery of Caravaggio’s death is reaching its semi-exciting climax as blood drawn from likely decedents of the chiaroscuro painter with the rock-star reputation are even now being compared to DNA samples taken from bones found in the ossuary underneath the church at Porto Ercole on the Tuscan coast, commonly believed his last resting place. And where did they find potential blood relatives of Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio? Why, the northern Italian town of Caravaggio, of course. Seems a half dozen of the residents of the ancient village can trace their ancestry back to the time of the great painter. Such is the advantage of being a genetic detective in a country where many local populations and much of the national infrastructure have remained relatively stable for over 2,000 years (for example the spine of the Italian highway system is itself based on ancient Roman roads). If there’s a match between the calcified remains below the Porto Ercole church and the blood samples, we should know in a couple of months. Said one researcher, “If all goes well, we hope to get the definitive answer in May… This is the last occasion, if we don’t manage with all the work and research that we have done, no else can after.” So, the next thing you should hear about the centuries-long mystery of Caravaggio’s death would be the identification of his remains. From there, a complete inspection of his bones could reveal his cause of death in a matter of weeks. Fingers crossed, the answer to one art’s great questions could arrive just before the 400th anniversary of the painter’s death—July, 18th.

For a full survey of Caravaggio’s wild life, join our walking tour of his days in Rome available in our newly released, “ART + TRAVEL EUROPE: Step into the Lives of Five Famous Painters”.

Caravaggio Investigation to Show Definitive Results in May (Artdaily.org)

Image: Possible descendants of Caravaggio offer blood samples to researchers in Caravaggio, Italy earlier this month. Courtesy of REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo.

90-Minute Tours: Trips to Italy, North Korea, and Stockholm at Weekend Box Office

Gabriel — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 18:57:08 +0000

Ok, we’re going to go out on a limb here and assume that if you’re reading this—or if you can read in general—you won’t be spending your hard-earned money on obvious stinkers like “The Bounty Hunter” or “Repo Man” in your off hours. Instead, we’ve got a fine list of smaller films, all of varying quality, that offer brief trips to such far-flung destinations as North Korea, Sweden, and a tiny island off the coast of the Bronx for your 90-minute weekend getaway.

DESTINATION: Los Angeles, California, U.S.A.
MOVIE: “Greenberg”, “The Runaways”
Two very different views of the same city, both of these films truly feed off of their environments. The mid-70s skeeze of southern California is the tinted backdrop for rise of America’s most infamous all-girl band. In “Greenberg”, the twisted roads and verdant backyards of L.A.’s hills challenge and confound Ben Stiller neurotic Brooklynite protagonist.

DESTINATION: North Korea
MOVIE: “Kimjongilia”
Is there any place more mysterious and terrifying on earth than the rogue state of North Korea? Another volume in the growing library of documentaries on life inside the prison nation, “Kimjongilia” is mostly a series of interviews filmed outside the country, though the few bits of footage shot inside the DPRK are bright and transporting.

DESTINATION: City Island, New York, New York, U.S.A.
MOVIE: “City Island”
Apparently, there’s a sizable fishing community quietly existing only a few hundred yards off the shore of the Bronx and nobody told us. Filmed almost entirely on City Island, this family comedy mixes small-town life with big-town dreams on an island in the Hudson that has a fine a view of Manhattan, but often seems to exist in another universe.

DESTINATION: Stockholm, Sweden
MOVIE: “The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo”
Filmed primarily on Gamla Enskede in Stockholm, this adaptation of Steig Larsson’s international bestselling mystery novel is filled with violence, dread, and kink. While most reviews suggest it’s a fun, pulpy jaunt through the chilly beauty of Scandinavia, it’s also pretty clear that for all the over-the-top characters and Byzantine, macabre scenarios, this thriller takes itself more seriously than you ever will.

DESTINATION: New York, New York, U.S.A.
MOVIE: “Shutterbug”
The notices on this New-York-based romantic drama centering around a budding photographer are decidedly mixed. They do agree, however, that northern New Jersey, Manhattan and Queens get a lush visual treatment, both through the lens of the lead character and through director Minos Papas’ camera.

DESTINATION: Cape Cod, Massachusetts, U.S.A.
MOVIE: “The Lightkeepers”
Cue the violins—this sentimental romance in the sands featuring Richard Dreyfuss and Mamie Gummer takes place in the rarefied climes of 1912 Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Granted, there’s little advance praise for the film, but sweeping, diffused-light vistas of one of upper-crust America’s longest-lived playgrounds should make for a delightful visual diversion this weekend.

DESTINATION: Trentino and Milan, Italy
MOVIE: “Vincere”
Again, hailing from the early years of the last century, this crimson tale of Benito Mussolini’s rise to power as told through the view of his early love, Ida Dalser, was shot on soundstages with exteriors in Turin, Trento, and Savigliano—all locations exotic to American movie audiences. Applauded at Cannes, this may be the hottest ticket out of your boring berg this weekend.

DESTINATION: Rome, Italy
MOVIE: “Mid-August Lunch”
A charming slice of life set in the less affluent corners of modern Rome, “Mid-August Lunch” shares genes with “The Brothers McMullen”, “Waking Ned Devine”, and a hundred French home-and-hearth comedies. If you’re looking for a laid-back trip out of town with a splash of eccentric local color, this may be the one.

Images:
Top (clockwise from upper left): “The Runaways”, River Road Entertainment, “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo”, Danish Filminstitute, “Kimjongila”, Green Garnet Productions, “Vincere”, Offside Productions.
Bottom (clockwise from upper left): “Greenberg”, Scott Rudin Productions, “Shutterbug”, Cyprian Films, “The Lightkeepers”, Fish Weir Filmworks, “City Island”, CineSon Entertainment.

Just Que It: Casting News Has Us Digging Through Netflix for Jazz Biopics

Gabriel — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:04:14 +0000

Rock star lives have long been grist for the Hollywood movie mill—“The Doors”, “The Buddy Holly Story”, “The Runaways”. Even fictional rock stars and real bluesmen have ruled the multiplex at various times (“The Rose”, “Ray”). But for some odd reason, biopics of jazz greats haven’t quite become a successful category onto their own. Sure, we’ve had a few winners here and there—but given that jazz and film were born and grew up in the U.S. right beside each other, it’s surprising that more flicks featuring the greats of this truly American art form haven’t added up to any sort of positive critical mass. Now with some historical breathing room between us and the highpoint of jazz, maybe the two jazz biopics in development (featuring Don Cheadle as troubled trumpeter Miles Davis and Mary J. Blige as genre-busting singer Nina Simone) might get a better shake at the box office. Obviously, both actors bear some resemblance to the performers they portray and one of them, Blige, has the musical chops to back up her portrayal. In anticipation, we’ve rounded up the best performances by actors playing jazz greats for you to add to your Netflix que.

5. RAY LIOTTA AS FRANK SINATRA IN “THE RAT PACK” (1998)

This made-for-HBO look at the strife and sex behind the mystique of the “rat pack” (Sintatra’s 50s and 60s crew of comedians, actors, and singers) didn’t hold together all that well as a movie, but its individual performances were spectacular. Don Cheadle offered an angry, righteous take on Sammy Davis Jr. in an electric fantasy sequence created by “Mummy” director Rob Cohen and Joe Mantegna was quietly effecting as Dean Martin sipping whiskey glasses filled with apple juice in order to play up his own alcoholism to Vegas crowds. But Liotta was boss of this pic and his take on Sinatra’s famous sexual rapacity, cold-blooded careerism, narcissism and genius seemed spot-on, even if the details and dialogue were completely fabricated. Liotta had to rely on Michael Dees to provide Sinatra’s singing voice and was a good deal taller and larger than Ol’ Blue Eyes. But whenever he reveals Sinatra’s out-sized ambition, the resemblance is stunning.

4. DIANA ROSS AS BILLIE HOLIDAY IN “LADY SINGS THE BLUES” (1972)

Let’s be clear—even though Ross managed to get an Academy Award nomination for this role, her talents lie in singing, not acting. Still, underpowered as a dramatic performer and far too skinny to play the beautiful, curved Holiday, Ross had the voice and performance sides of this part locked in. There’s something to be said for her reproduction of Holiday’s plight—a life filled with destitution, rape, heroin addiction, arrests, psychological problems and abusive treatment by her husband and mob enforcer Louis McKay (Billy Dee Williams in a fine turn). But over-emoting and drama were already established as parts of Ross’ stage act by then and the final chapters of his film draw deeply from that melodramatic well. Nonetheless, “Lady Sings The Blues” captures the seedy desperation that even some of Jazz’s true greats had to endure, making it an effective biopic.

3. SAL MINEO AS GENE KRUPA IN “THE GENE KRUPA STORY” (1959)

Sure, it sounds like the least exciting movie possible—the tale of a blindingly talented young white drummer pursuing his dreams in the New York club scene. But thanks to an athletic performance by one of cinema’s most under-appreciated actors, Sal Mineo (a handsome Krupa doppelganger), a canny script, and fine direction by Don Weis, this tale of the excitable drummer turns into something more. Krupa was intimately involved in this film, contributing to the soundtrack, its sometimes fanciful script, and the general tone. Filmed just before Jazz would give way to rock, perhaps no picture captures the excitement of 1940s and 1950s Jazz in a dramatic format as well as “The Gene Krupa Story”. Trippy visualizations of rhythm, race relations, cannibus, God, European philosophy, a Hollywood ending, this flick has it all and then some, remaining one of the few watchable films about drummers and drumming ever. As footnote, Mineo is the only actor on this list who worked hand-in-hand with his living subject.

2. JAMES STEWART AS GLENN MILLER IN “THE GLENN MILLER STORY” (1952)

Miller and Stewart were a perfect match in a way—not only did they both strike similar figures, but both men were the fresh-scrubbed, apparently all-American, conscientious leaders of their particular field. Glenn Miller was the country’s favorite Big Band leader and, in his time, the white face of an African-American art form for a nation thrilled by its sound but scared of its origins. Stewart too had become an agreed-upon mascot for American values through his many performances (Tom Hanks holds the title now). Peppered with appearances by actual Jazz stars and members of Miller’s band, the 1952Anthony Mann movie is a strong example of early 1950s Hollywood storytelling—guy grows up, falls in love with music, falls in love with a girl, then tragically dies while serving his country in the Army Air Force Band during World War II. The music swoons and this picture shimmers, even if the various particulars of Miller’s life give way to a more redemptive, patriotic telling of his story.

1. FOREST WHITAKER AS CHARLIE PARKER IN “BIRD” (1988)

Like “Lady Sings The Blues”, “Bird” takes on the tale of a Jazz great who, for all his talent, fame, and spirit, was a magnet for suffering, died young, and was probably not very fun to be around when alive. In opposition to the Krupa and Miller biopics, Clint Eastwood’s carefully orchestrated “Bird” is neither a celebration of music or a celebration of a life. It is a sad, sad story of how music and money could only offer so much freedom to African Americans at the height of the Jazz Era. It used real locations, real live recorded music, and real quotes from Bird’s life both in America and in Europe. Moreover, Forest Whitaker’s first true leading performance channeled something real and unsettling about Parker—his sad ability to squander every ounce of stability his life could offer in favor of another late-night jam or another shot of smack. Whitaker’s Parker is the most real of all these performances and Cheadle, who will soon portray Davis, one of Parker’s greatest collaborators and rivals, and Blige, who will play an equally ingenious artist in Simone, would both do well to put this at the top of their Netflix que.

“Departed” Mob Boss and The Case of The Great Gardner Heist

Gabriel — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 20:07:31 +0000

It was just a few days ago that we mentioned how the FBI was refocusing their efforts on the greatest unsolved art heist in American history—a 1990 invasion at Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum that claimed five Degas oils, three Rembrants, a Manet, and, most notably, “The Concert” by Joannes Vermeer. In it, we referenced FBI Special Agent George Kelly who said, “after doing this for eight years, my feeling is that it was some local guys, a quick score in and out.” Well, in your quest to find the info that could win you the $5 million reward offered by the FBI, you can cross one very famous “local guy” off your list of suspects—the Southie Boston mob kingpin and inspiration for Jack Nicholson’s turn as Frank Costello, the villain of Martin Scorsese’s Oscar-winning pulp bloodbath, “The Departed”.

James “Whitey” Bulger, a Boston-area crime-scene fixture for over 55 years, has been the center of much speculation regarding the case. Known to both local and federal investigators as the violent, erratic center of organized crime in South Boston beginning in the late 1970s, Bulger seems a logical suspect for the mastermind behind the daring, rough heist most agree was perpetrated by “local guys”. However, after questioning Bugler’s surviving associates, U.S. Assistant Attorney Brian Kelly has determined that “Whitey” was most likely not involved—a judgment that removes another layer of sexy, urban-legend patina from the case. We were actually kind of hoping that thereported psychopath and former CIA test subject would wind up being the man pulling the strings of art’s most famous heist—it would have neatly dovetailed our coverage of Vermeer from our latest title, “ART + TRAVEL EUROPE: Step into the Lives of Five Famous Painters” with our coverage of movie locations as found in our FILM + TRAVEL guidebooks. We’d already had a wonderful walking tour of the Gardner combined with a street survey of locations from “The Departed”. Oh, well. By the by, if you do happen to run into Bulger during your world travels, note that the 81-year-old former boss is still on the FBI’s Top Ten Most Wanted List with a $2 million reward on his head.

Images (left to right): “The Concert”, Joannes Vermeer, c. 1664, courtesy of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, James “Whitey” Bulger in a 1984 FBI photo.

Birds on A Wire, Japan’s Penis Festival, and An Abstract Artist Battle Royale

Gabriel — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:29:25 +0000

At London’s Barbican, zebra finches play guitar for the pleasure of museum goers—play “Freebird”, dudes! (Guardian UK)

Only 33 years after its last use, France has opened a museum dedicated to their favorite method of capital punishment, the guillotine. (Guardian)

If you’re liable to blush or giggle at the sight of giant wooden weewees and whowhodillys, you should probably avoid Japan for the next few days. (Global Post)

The final showdown to determine America’s greatest living American abstract painter begins! (The Awl)

Off to shop the vintage bazaars of Paris or London? Here’s five useful things to know before you dive into someone else’s dress. (Shine)

A new student documentary gives us a closer look at the man who has become a local celebrity by adding mosaic details to trash cans and lampposts in New York’s East Village. (Gothamist)

Hearing O’ The Green: A Sip of Irish Sounds For St. Paddy’s Day

Gabriel — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:42:52 +0000

We could hardly avoid the fact that it’s Saint Patrick’s Day, what with our New York office literally yards away from the world’s oldest, longest, largest parade commemorating this most Irish of all holidays. Even now, we can hear the trumpets and snares of high-school marching corps as they march down 5th avenue belting out a martial version of Metallica’s “Enter Sandman”. As fun as it is to hear the fife and drums right outside our windows, we thought you could use a different taking on Celtic noise making through this local’s guide to the folk-filled music pubs of Dublin and a six-song refresher course on the various strains of modern music flowing from the Emerald Isle. Enjoy the new tunes you find over a pint with some mates. But don’t overdo it. We all have to be back at work tomorrow morning. Luck of the Irish indeed.

For an inside view of punk rock in Dublin along with a tour of 11 other musical sub-genres around the world, order yourself a copy of “MUSIC + TRAVEL: Touring the Globe Through Sounds and Scenes” before today’s festivities carry you off.

Dutch Artist Creates Massive Sculpture For Audience of Polar Bears

Gabriel — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 18:28:39 +0000

Through our travel guides on art, music and film, we encourage you to personally engage great paintings, rare sounds and unforgettable movie locations using your eyes, your passport and your feet. But a new, near monumental piece of sculpture created by Dutch artist Ap Verheggen isn’t something we suggest you see up close, unless you’re the captain of an icebreaker.

Choosing Greenland as his location, Verheggen has created a giant ripple of metal rising off a free-floating iceberg off the island nation’s west coast. As colossal as daunting a the work is, it’s far from permanent—the southbound frozen platform will soon melt, sending Verhaggen’s composition down to Davey Jones’ locker. But before you get all up in arms about the pollution of our endangered oceans by careless Danish creatives, know that this doomed piece is but one of a series of outlandish public artworks Verhaggen has created to raise awareness of environmental issues. Meant to represent a dog-sled driver (note the curling whip) the sculpture’s sojourn, which could last up to two years, is a microcosm of Verheggen’s views on global warming (we’re all going to drown—get it?) Verheggen tells Artsdaily.org, “Usually it is the driver who determines when the journey begins, where it goes, and when it is over. By placing the dogsled driver on an iceberg, we show that nature ultimately determines the course of the journey.” Eloquent as that is, the achievement of actually completing the project and sending it on its long, eventually fatal course is something special in of itself. With other projects funded by the World Wildlife Fund to appear in similarly threatened icy habitats (Canada, Siberia), we’re looking forward to Verhaggen’s next Artic artwork.

For more information on this project and live webcam views of the sculpture, go to www.coolemotion.org

Mona Lisa’s Changing Moods, Packing Fashionably, and Freedom Fries Forever

Gabriel — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:15:54 +0000

Is your inner visionary starting to feel hemmed in by your corporate cubical? Become a master of the office-supply arts. (Modelina)

Almost seven years since the beginning volleys of the invasion of Iraq, there are still some places in this world where the word “French” is verboten and “Freedom Fries” still reign. (Gadling)

Sorry—your giant muppet penis is not welcome at the New Museum. (Gothamist)

Amazingly, researchers have found that the Mona Lisa’s famously canny expression actually changes depending on what part of her face you concentrate on. (Telegraph UK)

The Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum in Key West, Florida—long a pilgrimage site for aspiring writers—has just received landmark status. (HuffPo)

Pack Your Bags and Put on Your Walking Shoes! “Art + Travel” Hits The Shelves Today

Gabriel — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 15:53:12 +0000

We’ve been touting the upcoming release of our new title, “Art + Travel Europe: Step Into the Lives of Five Famous Painters”, for weeks now. Finally, this unique volume of historical backgrounds, local walking tours, museum reviews, and handy lists of fine eateries and accommodations has been released. At last, world travelers can pick up our trim, portable guidebook and walk through the lives of Goya, Vermeer, Munch, Caravaggio, and Van Gogh and follow their footsteps through the towns that housed them and, quite often, served as their subjects and muses.

If you’ve ever wanted to walk through a sunflower patch that might have been painted by Van Gogh over a century ago, watch the delicate light of Delft, which Vermeer so famously recreated, pour down on its ancient port, or walk the alleys where Caravaggio sought out the waifs and roughs that populated his paintings, everything you need is waiting for you in our latest title. Madrid may be a bustling, exciting modern city—but its curious royal roots pop up from the pavement when you walk its streets pursuing the life of Goya as detailed in “Art +Travel”. Even the beautiful, somber Oslo receives an injection of 20th-Century daring and sex through retracing the paths of its resident master, Edvard Munch.

But “Art + Travel”, with all its details on the lives of these painters, all its surveys of local culture, all its lists of nearby places to enjoy food, spirits, and sleep, is so much more than an account of five artists in five cities. “Art + Travel” is a companion guide to anyone inspired, fascinated, or moved by art—one whose treasures can be enjoyed from the streets of Rome, from a seat in Business Class, or the comfort of your own bedroom. Order now or head out to your local bookseller for the journey of a lifetime.

Images—
Top (clockwise from upper left): A field of sunflowers a la Van Gogh in Arles, the exterior of the Prado Museum in Madrid, “The Milkmaid”, Joannes Vermeer, 1657 – 58, on display at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, courtesy of the Rijksmuseum, the exterior of the Munch Museum in Oslo.
Bottom: The courtyard of the Capitoline Museums in Rome.